Bricklaying Basics-Spreading the mortar

Spreading the mortar correctly is an important part of bricklaying and it takes a lot of practice but after a while it becomes second nature and everything falls into place.Below is a very good video on the subject and its definitely worth a watch

Spot The Mistakes on this video from B&Q !

I have to say here that I have got nothing again B&Q and I shop there all the time but they have not distinguished themselves with this particular diy video and do not give very good advice when it comes to brick pointing.(For the difference between Brick Pointing and Brick Jointing see videos on an earlier post.)

The issues I have with this video are.

1.The mortar raker (with the wheels)they use is only used for raking out fresh mortar when a brick wall is to be WEATHER POINTED (rather than jointed)at some point in the future.This tool is not made for the hardship of raking out old mortar and you will end up with huge blisters on your hands if you use it for any length of time.

2.The finish on the brick wall in the video is cut and struck "brick pointing" (or "weather pointing" as it is also known) and NOT brick jointing as the presenter makes it out to be.The new and the old are a complete mismatch as the finish is done with a jointing iron and not a pointing trowel.


3.The perpindicular joints on a wall are known as PERPS (short for perpindicular) and not PERKS as they are called in the video.

4.The old PERPS should be raked out with a plugging chisel and not a cold chisel.The plugging chisel has a tapered tip which better facilitates the removal of the old mortar.If a square tipped cold chisel is used it is more likely to damage the surrounding bricks as it is far too clumsy for this delicate operation.

Thing is if you are selling your property this will stick out like a sore thumb when it is surveyed, and will damage your chances of finding a buyer.

COME ON B&Q YOU CAN DO BETTER THAN THAT!

Brick Pointing and Brick Jointing-videos

Brick Jointing and Brick Pointing Videos

Brick Jointing and Brick Pointing are two different finishes that can be applied to brickwork.The first,"Brick Jointing" seen in the first video is finished with a jointing iron as the work proceeds and gives a rounded finish whereas the second is a "cut and struck" weather pointing which is done with a pointing trowel and the excess mortar is cut off with a knife with the tip bent at right angles to the blade.

Brick Pointing-video

Radial brickwork-video

Flemish Bond Brickwork video

Flemish bond brickwork is the term used in nine inch brickwork where the arrangement of bricks is usually header stretcher header formation continued throughout. These days we do not see much solid nine inch work as it has been taken over by cavity walling, which is mainly a four inch skin of brickwork on the outside with a three/four inch cavity in the middle (where insulation is inserted), and a four inch skin of thermalite block on the inside. The two skins are usually tied together with cavity ties at specified intervals. This method has many advantages over the traditional method, namely, better sound and thermal insulation. The appearance of flemish bond brickwork is sometimes required in cavity walling when a new extension is built onto an existing old building which has the traditional flemish bond arrangement of bricks.

The formation of bricks is header (snapped in half as in the video above) stretcher and this is repeated alternately throughout.

This is a method which can seamlessly integrate new with old, especially with imperial bricks such as the london stock which lends itself perfectly to this type of work.

As a side note, I have to add that in my experience and eventhough I`m given to believe it is widely practiced in certain parts of the country, laying bricks frog side down , as in the above video, has always been frowned upon by both clerk of works and architects alike, because of the fact that the frogs are never wholly filled with mortar thereby leaving a weakness.

Tuckpointing video

The tuck pointing video above is a good example of how tuck pointing should be done. As you can see, even though in theory it seems easy enough, in reality it takes a lot of practice to achieve this level of proficiency and as always the mark of any good tradesman is how seemingly effortlessly he performs his task. The finished job looks very impressive and will enhance the aesthetic appeal of the building, making it look as if the brickwork is perfectly square.

Gallows brackets-How to install them

Gallows brackets are metal supports, triangular in shape used in combination with a pre stressed concrete lintel to support the chimney stack in the loft when a chimney breast has been removed on the floor(s) below.Different councils have slightly different requirements when it comes to the installation of Gallows brackets and while one will insist on 3 gallows brackets to support the brickwork above another will require just 2. The strength of the gallows brackets will also need to comply with council specifications which means the flanges will have to be 3 inches wide and not 2 inches as was the case in the old days. Because the chimney flues are bonded into the main party wall there is no need to be too concerned that the whole stack will come tumbling down and I have seen cases where the only thing supporting the stack in the loft was the grace of God.

Before embarking on a project like removing a chimney stack always notify the council and be safe rather than sorry as they will advise the best way forward and there will be no worrying when it comes to selling the house as everything will have been carried out in accordance with building regulations. Remember also that if you share a party wall with your neighbour you may need a Party Wall Agreement.

The process of installing the gallows brackets is pretty straight forward and can easily be carried out in a day but great care has to be taken to ensure you do not fall down through the ceiling as this can ruin your whole day.

You will need

1. 3 gallows brackets

2. 1pre-stressed concrete lintel 9inches wide (2 lintels 4 inches wide are easier to carry) or metal plate

3. 6 rawlbolts to bolt the brackets to the wall

4. 1 drill with a 16mm drill bit

5. Sharp sand and cement mix to use as drypack between the top of the lintel and the underside of the brickwork

Sequence of operations installing the Gallows Brackets

1.Drill 6 holes (two per bracket) where the Gallows brackets are to go i.e one bracket must go on either side of the stack and one in the middle.

2. Offer the gallows brackets to the wall and put the rawlbolts through securing them tightly with a spanner.

3. Span the lintel across the gallows brackets

4. Mix up 2:1 sharp sand and cement mix better known as drypack (damp not wet) and insert it between the lintel and the upper brickwork forming a very strong bond.

This is not a very difficult job to do, but given the dusty conditions and absence of good ventilation in your average loft, it does warrant the use of a good quality dust mask.( and at least six pints of a good quality lager to ensure no possibility of a dreaded sore throat. This is entirely optional... but highly recommended :)