Types of Bricks

Image by east_lothian_museums via FlickrTypes of Bricks

This week I would like to discuss the different types of bricks available and their uses.

Engineering

Engineering bricks are a very hard, durable and highly resistant to frost damage.They are rated as either class A or B, with A being the strongest and they are usually used below ground level where great strength is required and also for Damp proof courses. They usually come in either red or blue colours

Common Bricks

These bricks are of an inferior quality to the engineering or facing brick and they should not be used below ground level and are most commonly used for internal walling where they are generally plastered over.These bricks are sometimes referred to as 'flettons"or LBC faced commons because of their common coloured base.

Facing Bricks

Facing bricks come in a variety of colours and are selected for their attractive appearance. They are aesthetically pleasing and are by far the most popular of all bricks.These Facing bricks can be broken down into the following classifications.

a) Wirecut

The majority of bricks in the UK are formed using this process. First, clay is extruded through a brick-shaped die, the appearance of the brick can then be determined by the addition of sand or texturing the face. The resultant clay column is then cut into individual bricks and fired in a kiln. They produce crisp lines and sharper looking brickwork.

b) Stock Bricks

Stock bricks are machine moulded bricks generally with a frog indent, formed by pressing wet clay into sanded moulds. The use of sand to release the bricks from the mould contributes to their soft texture and slightly irregular shape. Stock bricks produce a softer appearance

c) Waterstruck

These are moulded bricks released from the mould by water. They are solid bricks, containing no holes or frogs. The use of water together with the wetness of the clay produces a smooth and lipped edge.

Reclaimed Bricks

Reclaimed bricks have, by definition, been reclaimed from demolition sites - some may be handmade bricks, some other types of facing brick, others may be engineers. Their edges are typically worn and irregular and a number may have remnants of mortar on due to their original use. Many will have fine creases, characteristic folds and variations in colour that typify old brickwork. It is this combination which some feel gives "Reclaims" a charm and character all of their own. By virtue of their age the vast majority of Reclaimed Bricks are in Imperial dimensions. The Matching Brick Company stocks a range of reclaimed bricks in each of its yards.

Imperial-Sized Bricks

As well as Reclaimed Bricks, The Matching Brick Company stocks a range of new bricks in Imperial size (normally 73mm or 75mm). Other imperial-sized bricks are obtainable to order.

Special Shapes

A wide variety of Bricks are available in Special Shapes or sizes to compliment or contrast with all facing bricks. The MBC stocks a large range of special shapes in smooth red and blue, and can obtain any special shape to order. We also offer a cut and bond service which is ideal for creating angles for conservatory bases etc.

Handmade

As the name suggests, handmade bricks are literally made by a person throwing clay into a mould by hand. This produces the distinctive creases or "smiles" that charecterise handmade bricks. Once all bricks were made this way and although a few traditional handmade brickworks still exist, the cost of producing bricks by this method is prohibitive so more often nowadays this process is done by a machine. These are prestige facing bricks adding style, individuality and character to any project.

House Extensions

With the current economic downturn casting a gigantic dark shadow over us all, and with the current difficulty people are experiencing in selling their houses, home extensions are becoming an increasingly more appealing alternative to moving for those who need the extra room. The relaxation in regulations concerning the building of house extensions is another reason people are more inclined to go down this route. So what exactly is involved in building a bog standard house extension and what is the potential cost. The following,while only an approximation,will give a good idea of the costs involved

Item	Cost
Architects Planning Fee	£450
Council Planning Permission Fee	£150
Architects Building Regulations Fee	£350
Council Building Regulations Fee	£125
Council Inspection Fee	£260
RSJ Calculations	£80
Builders Cost	£23000
Inevitable extras	£2000
Total Cost	£26,415

When compared to the cost of moving and when all the expenses are taken into account it can make good economic sense to consider a house extension, especially for someone with a growing family. It can make even better sense to do it yourself and save even more money and this is a way of saving an absolute fortune while not having to worry about the possibility of ending up with "the builder from hell", as the responsibility will be entirely yours, and it may prove to be a stepping stone to a an even bigger future project when you may even decide to build your own home.... Just a thought........

Chimney Breast Removal

Chimney Breast Removal is something nearly every householder thinks about at one time or another. It has enormous advantages including making a room look larger and it also provides much needed free wall space for the insertion of a row of units or fitted wardrobes. Apart from being quite a messy job it is not that difficult to do and it is well worth the effort because of the benefits.The thing to remember is that gallows brackets have to be installed in the loft to support the stack.These are triangular steel supports which are bolted on to the wall on either side of the stack on top of which a wide steel plate or concrete lintel is placed to carry the weight of the upper stack. Prior to carrying out chimney breast removal you must always inform the local authorities and also the next door neighbour who shares the party wall with you.

During the chimney breast removal great care is needed because too much vibration could cause damage to the fixtures and fittings next door so a softly softly approach should be adopted. It is also advisable to hose down with water as the demolition of the breast is in progress so that dust is kept to a minimum. After the breast and hearth is removed the ceiling joists can be extended where the old trimmer used to be and the floorboards can be put in place and the ceiling areas can be plasterboarded ready for skimming. A couple of coats of unibond to the walls is neccessary here so that the render adheres to the brickwork.The skirting boards can now be fixed and also the coving and care should be taken here to ensure that a perfect match is achieved. The plaster should now be left to dry for about a week and it can then be decorated so that it seamlessly blends in with its surroundings.

How to lay bricks

Image by cwalker71 via FlickrLaying bricks is not as hard as you might think and with a little bit of practice you can be laying bricks like a professional in a very short time.The hardest part of laying bricks is getting the mortar bed right and even that is not very difficult anymore with a marvelous tool called" the bricky".This is a great little aid to laying the exact amount of mortar as a bed for the bricks. It comes in at under 30 pounds and if you want to do your own bricklaying this is ideal.
The first project you should undertake is a straightforward wall.Start off on a level surface and lay one row(known as a course) of bricks ensuring the bed joints and the perps(these are the mortar joints that go between bricks) are 10mm.
You can start at one end and introduce a half brick to obtain what is known as the bond.This is the arrangement of bricks
in a wall such that the end of each brick ends up half way in the brick of the previous course.This particular bond is known as stretcher bond and the other two most popular bonds are English Bond and Flemish Bond but the latter are mostly related to double skins of brickwork as opposed to stretcher bond which is single skin. Build up a corner on either end and ensure that the joints are exactly 10mm.When this is completed you can now run in the bricks in the middle using a string line as a guide to ensure that the tops are dead level. As the mortar is going off use a jointing iron to smooth finish the joints and use a very soft brush to clean the brickwork. Now just stand back and admire your handiwork.

How to lay brick pavers

Brick Pavers are very easy to lay and with a little bit of patience anybody can transform a grotty looking driveway into a thing of beauty, and as a famous poet said one time "A thing of beauty is a joy forever". Brick pavers comes in various sizes and colours and can be laid in various patterns such as "Basket weave" and " square herringbone" to name but two. They usually come in either 40x200mm 0r 50x200mm thicknesses .
Thorough preparation of the base is essential and usually 100mm of Type1 or crushed concrete is preferred, and this has to be well compacted with a Wacker Plate to ensure that it is well consolidated. A fall should be incorporated into the driveway at this point to ensure water run-off. A 50mm bed of sharp sand is laid on top and carefully screeded level. The first layer of pavers can now be set out in whatever pattern is preferred. At this stage it is best to ensure that the cuts leading into the edges will all be the same size to give it a uniform look.
When it comes to the cuts around the perimeter it is best to hire a block splitter or a table saw with a diamond tipped blade to ensure accurate cutting. When all the brick pavers are laid the joins should be filled with fine silica sand and then thoroughly compacted with the compacter plate.You should now have a driveway that is the envy of all your neighbours.

Masonry Repairs

The average bricklayer in London gets called in on a regular basis to carry out extensive repairs to defective masonry .
Masonry Repairs to most houses are necessary at one point or another because of the damagingImage via Wikipedia effects of weathering.

Frost especially can have a very detrimental effect on the softer less impervious types of masonry. In the wintertime when the masonry gets saturated from the rain it freezes and expands.This blows the face off and consequently these bricks will require renewal to bring the masonry back to its former glory.
These days with the introduction of waterproofing sealers,the neccessity for masonry repairs are gradually becoming a thing of the past. These sealers afford great protection for the masonry against the elements while at the same time allowing it to breathe. This is an excellent innovation and all that is required for complete masonry protection is a liberally applied coat of this magic liquid with an ordinary paint brush or spray hose and you can rest easy at night, secure in the knowledge that no further treatment will be necessary for years.

How To Lay a Concrete Base

Last week I was called in to lay a concrete base for a shed
Eventhough technically, laying a concrete base does not lie within the domain of your average bricklayer nevertheless I have had the pleasure of doing one on many occasions and the procedures are as follows.

1. Dig out the area where the proposed base is to be, to a depth of at least 100mm.
2. Make formwork (to encase the concrete) with some 100x50mm to the size of the proposed base.
3. Ensure the depth of the concrete is 100mm.
4. Lay some hardcore (broken bricks etc.) and compact thoroughly with a compacter plate or similar ensuring there are no soft spots.
5. Drive some pegs into the ground to secure the formwork to and leave a little fall on it so that the rainwater can run off when the finished slab
   
6. Using an electric mixer mix up a ratio of 5 parts balllast to 1 part cement ensuring it is thoroughly mixed to the correct consistency
7. Barrow the concrete into the proposed base area and with a seesawing action level off the concrete (with a long straight length of timber) in line with the top of the formwork.
8. If a smooth finish is required use a plastering trowel when the concrete has dried a little
9. Be aware that a smooth finish can be dangerous in the winter and when combined with ice can prove positively fatal to the elderly and infirm. A brush finish can be a good safe alternative.This is where a brush is very lightly dragged over the concrete to produce a slightly rippled effect.
   

Time to quench the old thirst with several pints of the Amber Nectar!
There you have it. The blueprint of how to lay a concrete base. Simple huh!!

How to Build a Brick Arch

To day I had to build a brick archway over a gate by the side of a house in Barnet. It was not a job I come across very often so I quite enjoyed doing something different. I first had to make a segmental arch former to support the brickwork.
Using a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the arch from a piece of plywood.I then cut out another piece exactly the same size and joined them together with pieces of 2x2 so that I had a former the exact size and width of the opening.I supported the arch former with a4x2 frame which would be taken away later when the brickwork had gone off. I then built up the brick corners and went to have a pint of beer with my trusted Polish assistant Piotr.
With the arch former in place I laid the bricks on top making sure I had an uneven number (there must always be an uneven number of bricks in an arch) I then put up my line from corner to corner and ran the rest of the brickwork making sure to cut the bricks at the arch very carefully.
Two courses of creasing tiles with brick on edge on top made for a very classy finish and all in all it looked a treat.Time for another pint I think :-)

Welcome to the bricklayer in london blog

I have been a bricklayer in london for over twenty years. I did my apprenticeship and got my City and Guilds qualifications and headed out to seek my fortune in the capitols building sites. I went on to get my Advanced City and Guilds because I thought about going to Canada and those were the requirements to get in at that time.I worked in Germany(just on the other side of the bridge on the right next to Cologne Cathedral) for a few years and also Ireland.When I returned from Germany I worked the building sites where I had a lot of fun but I longed to be my own boss so I went out on my own doing house extensions,garden walls brick paving,brick re pointing and brick driveways.The economy which has been pretty buoyant for the last 15 years is now experiencing a downturn which means that the number of businesses going into liquidation has increased manifold and house repossessions are taking place on a daily basis.People are reluctant to spend money on anything other than the bare essentials and even the weekly shop is costing much more than this time last year because of sky high oil prices and the now all too infamous credit crunch.